Tutorial Tuesday (GingerScraps)

Users’ Guide to the New Forum and Gallery

[Link to PDF version will go here when Ginger has time to convert.]

Have you had a chance to take the new Forum and Gallery for a spin yet? The Store and the Blog are unchanged, so they should feel pretty comfortable. But the new Forum and Gallery are REALLY awesome! The look is so clean and shiny! But some things have different names and some processes are a little different, so here’s a quick User’s Guide.

Let’s start with the Forum‘s home page. This screenshot is pretty busy, but it needed to be. Across the upper right side of the screen there are 7 icons that are direct links; I’ve labeled them in case they’re not familiar to you. From left to right, the link to the GingerScraps Store, the GingerScraps Blog, GingerScraps on Facebook, Pinterest and YouTube, a Contact Us button and a link to the GingerScraps Newsletter.

Right below them at #1, there’s a box where your Forum user name will appear (so you’ll know you’re logged in), with a Direct Messages (renamed from Private Messages) button and a Notifications button so you can quickly check what’s specifically yours. Direct Messages are only viewable by you and the sender, and Notifications lets you know when someone has Liked, Thanked or replied/commented to something you posted.

At #2, you’ll find the Forum access buttons. The New Posts button takes you to all the most recent posts to any Thread; you can click on the thread to see the comments and to make your own. If you’re a self-starter, you can start a new Thread by clicking the red New Thread button and you’ll see a list of all the topic SubForums, which are unchanged from our old Forum.

Featured Content #3 shows the top 3 pinned posts – those our Admins want to make readily visible and available; click on the coloured text and you’ll zip into the Thread without having to look for it. This is where you’d look for info on special events, like the St Patrick’s Day contest.

#4 is where you’ll find all the SubForums. For example the Welcome Wagon Forum contains multiple threads started by our GingerBread Ladies where they share links to little freebies they’ve created for us. As you scroll down the home page, you’ll see all of the SubForums listed.

Just below the Featured Content you’ll find #5, Trending Content. Here’s where you can see at a glance what’s catching other GingerScrappers‘ eyes.

Right at the bottom of the screen you’ll see #6, a list of all members currently online. This might be helpful if you’re wanting to message somebody with a time-sensitive message, or if you just want to know who’s up as late as you are. 😀

I dipped into the Home>Forums>GingerScraps Cookbook>Tutorials just to see what’s been happening there and discovered Grace has whipped up a couple of tutorials: How to LINK products from the Gallery to the Store and…

How to LINK images from the Gallery to threads. These two quick tutorials are important, especially to Creative Team members, so if you need to know how to handle these tasks, they’re right there for you.

I scrolled down to the Challenge Yourself SubForum and opened up the Cookie Jar. It’s laid out really nicely!

Go into the March 2025 Cookie Jar and read Missi‘s post about how the February Challenges will be managed. Right below it is information about Gallery posting to multiple albums, which isn’t currently possible.

While I was there, I figured I’d start my own Cookie Jar post so I could later add the layouts I (might) complete this month. I always Copy Missi‘s text and Paste it into my post. In the old Forum, the colours also Copied, but here they don’t so I changed the number in brackets to my usual red. Oh, and before I forget, look at all the places we can share our posts!! FacebookX, Bluesky, LinkedIn, Reddit, Tumblr, WhatsApp, email and a direct link are all there.

These icons in the top centre of the post box are going to be crazy helpful! To add a LINK to your post, click the little side-lying figure 8. Ooh, and there’s a keyboard shortcut, as if they knew I was coming. [Another thing to note: This new laptop of mine doesn’t disappear the descriptors seen when the cursor is hovered over an icon when I make a screenshot! I did a Snoopy happy dance when I saw that!]

Add an IMAGE, click the photo icon.

There’s even a SMILIES button.

I didn’t expect to see this! Sometimes a GIF speaks far more eloquently than words do.

This is a formatting icon that sets your Quoted text apart from the rest of the text. It’s very handy.

Let’s take a quick peek at the What’s New tab. Clicking on the little upside down tent symbol opens a drop-down menu. This Forum server has multiple ways to do almost anything.

The Media tab is where you’ll find what we used to call the Gallery. The drop-down lets you access a variety of Media related options. We have our own ALBUMS now!!

Have you ever wondered who posts the most? Or who has the most layouts in the Gallery? Or just how active you are here? Members has got you!

So, back to the Media tab. If you click on the tab itself, rather than the upside-down tent, the left side of the screen will have a list of all the Albums there are in the Gallery. I clicked on Member Galleries, but could have chosen any of the Designers or Challenges just by clicking on the inverted triangle to the left of the album title. That makes navigation really easy.

I opened up the Challenge Layouts Album and you can see the list is right there. Clickclickclick!

If you click on the Add Media subtab on the blue strip at the top of the Media screen, this menu opens. You can scroll down through the Albums list until you find the one you’re looking for. Remember, for now, add your Challenge layouts ONLY in the Challenge Album. Don’t upload your layout more than once. Wait for the add-on extension that Ginger and the tech team are working on. 

I’m going to add a layout to the Template #3 J Conlon and Sons Challenge Album for February.

This is the upload screen. I totally missed the change in allowable image size when I was doing this. I only saw it when I was editing my screenshots. We can go up to 1000×1000 pixels and 1MB now!!

Clicking on the Upload File box took me to the last folder of mine that I used. I found the correct folder and the version I saved for the Gallery. I could click on it then the Open button, or just double-click on the image. Notice all the ways I can verify I’m putting my layout where I want it to go.

When the Upload screen reappears, there’s a thumbnail of the layout but it shows the file name I gave it, which is a version of my title. I’ll change the entry so it’s exactly the title. Then I typed all my credits into the Description box. [Please don’t forget to include your credits. Our Designers deserve to be given credit for their work.] When everything I needed to include was there, I clicked Save.

And that’s it! My layout is posted. The title is correct, the credits are there. Fabulous!

There are still tasks I need to do before I’m finished. SO let’s update my Cookie Jar. I always have at least 2 GingerScraps tabs open on my desktop so I can move back and forth between them quickly and easily. I added the Challenge to my list on the Forum tab, then highlighted the name of my layout by click-dragging the cursor over it. I flipped back to the Media tab, Copied the Universal Resource Locator for my layout then back on the Forum tab, clicked on the Link icon as shown. Next, I Pasted the URL into the appropriately labeled box. Then I clicked Insert, and Save.

To add a Copy of my layout to the Challenge thread, I navigated my way to it in the Forum; the Media tab is still open to my layout. I right-clicked my mouse INSIDE the image in the Media tab and chose Copy Image Link from the pop-up menu. Next, I flipped back to the Forum tab, where I’ve got the correct Challenge thread open and waiting. This time I clicked on the photo icon as shown.

I usually don’t Drag and Drop, so I used the Link icon to add my Image Link URL. Feel free to do you, 😉

Once the URL appeared in the box, I clicked Insert then Post Reply.

And that’s how you add your Layouts to the new Gallery, top up your Cookie Jar and make sure your layout joins the proper thread.

I actually haven’t done any scrapping since I finished this layout back in February. I sprained the ring finger on my left hand… buddy-taped fingers really get in the way! Finger’s almost back to normal; although the knuckle is still swollen the pain is pretty much gone. As for the laptop setup, I still have a lot of MIA fonts, and I may end up not worrying about them. I’m finding out all the good things the machine does and getting comfortable with the keyboard. Those kinds of things I can do with just one hand! We have company coming for the weekend and I’m hoping to have a TON of great photos to work with afterward.

Next week, now that I know how the Media tab is laid out, I’ll bring you a Challenge Spotlight. Get ready to shine!!

Tutorial Tuesday (Photoshop Elements)

Quick Trick: Templates Without Drop Shadows

Templates are real time-savers (once you decide which of your hundreds of options you’ll use… speaking for myself) by literally telling you want to do. Many of them have integrated drop shadow Styles, which are super-easy to Copy and Paste onto your papers and elements, no great effort required. But some designers choose not to apply drop shadow Styles to their templates… which makes then less attractive to me, especially for repeat use. But I’ve come up with a bit of a hack for that! It only takes a few minutes and sets me up for even more options. Let’s talk about it.

For this tip to work, I’ll be using commercially-available drop shadow Styles, rather than creating a bunch of custom shadows. I can always change that up as I go along later. I’ll show you some options that are available in the GingerScraps Store:

Aimee Harrison‘s are pretty realistic. [Click on her name to be transported right to the Store!]

Scraps-N-Pieces has a simplified set.

Karen Schulz has LOTS of Styles and Actions in her bag of tricks.

Karen even has an Action that customizes your shadows for you! I haven’t tried it, but it’s been tested with Photoshop Elements 2018, 2019, 2020 using Windows, Photoshop Elements 2018 using a Mac and CC2020 in Windows so I have no doubt it would work for me. [Note to self: TRY THIS!!]

Okay, so now that’s been set up, I open my shadow-less template [Connie Prince Unwind 1]. I’m going to add shadows to ALL the layers, in batches by type. I’ll activate all the paper layers by click>CTRL/CMD>clicking on them one after the other until they’re all lit up. I start at the bottom, background layer and work my way up, but the other direction would also work.

Once I’ve got them all active, I’ll click on the Styles button at the bottom of the Layers Panel. Then using the Style Set Selector button, I’ll choose the Shadow Styles set I want to use. [Karen Schulz’] Hovering the cursor over the thumbnails, the type of shadow will appear so I can select a Paper Shadow. Then I click on it.

All the paper layers are now shadowed!

Working systematically, I’ll activate all the element types in the same way, adding the most appropriate shadow Style to each of them. For example, I’d activate all the flowers next, then use a flower shadow Style to add shadows to all of them at once. Then I could move on to leaves, flair, whatever layers remain unshadowed, until the whole template has a shadow on every layer. It really only takes a couple of minutes! Once that’s done, I’ll Save the shadowed version of the template in the same folder, with a new name [Connie Prince Unwind 1 shadowed] so I know which is which. Then I can go ahead and create my layout, knowing I can reuse the template later and the shadows will be there for me.

This may not be something you’d ever use, but now you know you have options.

Tutorial Tuesday (Photoshop Elements)

Quick Trick: About Those Shortcuts…

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3AKTiJO

I know I’m always harping on keyboard shortcuts… every tutorial has a bunch of them. They’re really great time-savers once you have them memorized, but they’re not all that intuitive. Some are, but surely not most. There are plenty of spots on the internet where someone has made lists of them, but how well do those lists apply to digital scrapbooking, when Photoshop and Photoshop Elements have such broad graphic design application? Hmm. So I made a list of the ones I use most often and made a little chart you can print and save.

Let’s look at them individually.

B : Activate the Brush Tool – The Brush Picker menu opens so you can choose your Brush, make adjustments to size, angle, roundness and so on.
C : Activate the Crop Tool – The Crop Tool has so many options! You can set a specific size and you can move the overlay around to get it perfect.
E : Activate the Eraser Tool – I don’t use the Eraser that often, but it’s handy for quick tweaks… like if a leaf has a long stem that sticks out oddly.
I : Activate the Color Picker (Eyedropper) – This is such a versatile tool, especially for those artsy layouts.
K : Activate the Fill Tool* – aka the Paint Bucket. I use this one ALL the time for my custom shadows. The process is quick with shortcuts!
M : Activate the Marquee Tool – The default is the rectangle… or whichever one you last used. Click M again to choose the other one.
N : Activate the Pen Tool – Super-useful for those times you want to draw lines.
R : Activate the Smudge Tool* – There are three tools in this set, so make sure you’ve got the Flying Fickle Finger up there so you can adjust your shadows.
T : Activate the Text Tool – I think everybody already knows and uses this one.
V : Activate the Move Tool* – I firmly believe this is what you should select right before you close your software to prevent messing things up with you use it again. I use it automatically when shifting my shadow layers.
X : Toggle the Foreground and Background Colors – I mostly use this one for my tutorial screenshots, but also when customizing text, Styles and oh yeah… when I’m using a Layer Mask to interweave elements seamlessly.

The next batch uses a combination of keystrokes. I provide both the Windows (CTRL and ALT) and Mac (CMD and OPT) versions for accessibility.

CTRL/CMD> + or : Zoom in or out – get in realllly close to see details, pull waaaay back to see the overall picture.
CTRL/CMD>A : Select All – This snaps the marching ants to the outside edge of the entire project.
CTRL/CMD>C : Copy – So handy for bringing objects from one project onto another, and for importing text from outside documents.
CTRL/CMD>D : Deselect* – This turns the marching ants off, to allow ongoing changes to other parts of the layout. When they’re on, you can’t do much.
CTRL/CMD>E : Merge selected layers – This is useful in so many ways, especially when you’re trying to create titles, word art or decreasing the size of your file.
CTRL/CMD>F : Repeat last Filter* – This goes for ANY Filter; my most used is the Gaussian Blur for my shadows to replicate the softening effect distance creates.
CTRL/CMD>I : Invert – This changes the colour of your object to the OPPOSITE on the colour wheel. Woohoo! More goodies for your stash!
CTRL/CMD>J : Duplicate layer(s) – You’ve seen this one a million times! It also works for multiple layers, so if you wanted to Duplicate a cluster, activate all the layers in that cluster and CTRL/CMD>J BOOM!
CTRL/CMD>L : Adjust Levels – Good for lightening or darkening images.
CTRL/CMD>N : New document – I like to build my titles and word art on their own documents then import them into the layout.
CTRL/CMD>O : Open last folder – I always fill a folder with the things I think I might use for a given layout, but sometimes I need to go back to the kit folder for more paper or whatever. If I’ve opened that kit folder once after starting my process, I can quickly get back to it using just these keystrokes.
CTRL/CMD>P : Print – You probably use this one a lot already.
CTRL/CMD>S : Save – If your computer is misfiring at times, or you need to interrupt your creativity to make supper, you might want to just Save what you’ve already done so it doesn’t vanish when your back is turned.
CTRL/CMD>U : Adjust Hue/Saturation – Very useful for recolouring on the fly.
CTRL/CMD>V : Paste – Whatever you last Copied or Cut will magically appear on your canvas.
CTRL/CMD>Y : Redo – For when you’ve overdone the Undo!
CTRL/CMD>Z : Undo – Undoubtedly my most uses shortcut of all time.
CTRL/CMD>SHIFT>S : Save ASElements creates a PhotoShop Document (PSD) so if you want you work Saved As a JPG or PNG, use this.
CTRL/CMD>SHIFT>I : Invert Selection – When I’ve Selected the edges of an object and want to alter everything outside of it,  the Selection must be Inverted.
CTRL/CMD>ALT/OPT>I : Resize document – Quick way to get to the Resize menu so you can Save your layout As a 600×600 Gallery-friendly pixel version.
CTRL/CMD>ALT/OPT>C : Resize canvas – When you need more room to create your title, word art or cluster than you have, use this.

* : these shortcuts are my go-tos for custom shadows These are the shortcuts I reach for automatically while creating shadows. My fingers just know where to go!

I’m getting a bit closer to that new laptop I mentioned. Hubby was at Costco this morning checking out the options. (As IF he knows what I need…)

Tutorial Tuesday (Potpourri)

What Do I Do With All My Layouts??

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/40irfvl

I know I can’t be the only one who has hundreds of completed digital layouts. I’ve been digiscrapping since October of 2010, after all… and I was late to the party! So that got me thinking about what we do with all the wonderful things we create. I’ve had several 8×8 hard-cover photo books printed, had quite a few layouts printed in both 8×8 and 12×12 format so I could put them in old-school albums or frames, and I’ve done a couple of calendars. With Christmas and Chanukah fast approaching, maybe some of you are planning to give scrapbook-related gifts. Did you know there are lots of options out there for what you can do and where you can do it? Here are a few!

<Editor’s note: where you see bold, coloured, underlined text, there’s a URL link embedded there which will take you directly to the site.>

I’m not going to talk about Kinko, Staples, Vistaprint or any of the more business-oriented print shops. I want to focus on scrapbooking!

I think we all know about Walmart Photo Centers. They’re typically found in the same part of the store as the electronics department. They offer prints, posters, photo books, canvas prints, calendars, plaques, greeting cards and a few other options. Prints-wise, they don’t do 12x12s, but they DO have 12×12 photo books in both soft and hard cover. I believe you can skip their “themes” and just upload your full-sized layouts to fill the pages. If you scrap in 8×10 or 8 1/2×11, you’re in luck – you can get prints at Walmart. You have a choice between going into the store to order, or an online store. Canadians, this is your link. Of course, as Walmart is a budget option, quality may be somewhat diminished.

The next one I think most of us know about is Shutterfly, the OG online photo service. Recently Costco eliminated both their in-warehouse and online photo services, moving their business to Shutterfly. Since this is where I’ve had most of my photo books printed, I wasn’t all that mad; their products run the gamut – anything you want printed on anything is possible here. I’ve uses the Costco service before and was quite annoyed that they ROLLED my 12×12 prints for shipping, so I was a bit trepidatious  of how the 12×12 prints for my dad’s memorial service would arrive. Thankfully they were packaged flat and well-protected. One great thing about Shutterfly is that they run sales all the time! Quality is decent, and sale prices make this a good choice. Canadians, your link is here.

Persnickety Prints is, in my opinion, the BEST option for prints. They’re completely online, based in Utah. They offer a wide variety of print sizes and types, as well as calendars (yes, they DO have 12×12 calendars!) and soft-cover photo books, but only 6×8, 8×8 and 5×5. Best of all, they use a credit system so you can buy an bunch of prints without having those prints ready to go. A couple of times a year (Black Friday, anyone?) they have a sale… I have 127 credits for 12×12 prints just waiting for me to give them the go-ahead. (I plan to print all my Ireland layouts and put them in an album.) As far as quality goes, they use Fuji photo paper, REAL silver halide photo paper, for crisp, clean, vivid prints. Turnaround time is quick, too.

Presto Photo is entirely devoted to scrapbooking. They offer prints and photo books in a variety of sizes, calendars (yes to 12×12) and gift options. Although they’re based in the US, their site supports currency from multiple countries. I did note some negative feedback in their comments section. so proceed at your own risk.

For non-US readers, I have a PSA for you. If one of the shipping options on your chosen site is UPS, choose any other mode! UPS charges a brokerage fee that often is more than the value of the contents of your package, and will harass you if you refuse delivery. This is on top of any duty you may be required to pay. I’ve never had to pay duty on any of the prints or books I’ve ordered, but I HAVE been harassed by UPS over another type of shipment I refused at the door.

Okay, back to our regularly-scheduled programming… you may have heard of Blurb, which is based mainly in Canada, but has a US site as well. Their focus is self-publishing, so for the family historian they’re a great choice. They have a variety of sizes, covers, paper choices and even magazines! They have a few wall art options, but they don’t do just prints, or any of the tchotchkes. I have a book that was produced by Blurb and the quality is very good. I think I might use them for the children’s book my brother wants me to illustrate.

Milkbooks is another printer that only provides books. They have a selection of sizes and options, including magazine format. And they’re pricey! But on the plus side, their site supports multiple currencies.

The last site I’ll mention is Treasure Books. I left them until last because they require the use of proprietary software. Their website refers to some issue with creating on Windows-based systems necessitating a call to their toll-free number. That by itself would make me leery, although they say they don’t use an automated call-answering system so you’d speak to a human right off the bat. Based in Canada, they also have a support number in the US. Their basic books are 20 pages, but can go as high as 200.

I hope you’re not disappointed that I have no screenshots for you this week. 😉

Tutorial Tuesday (Windows)

The Style File: Where Is It??

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/4c2NvvL

If you read the comment section, you’ll have seen that Kathi, aka Granny5pics, responded to my question on shadowing transparent objects: ““add and find commercial Styles (and Brushes) to your electronic devices? Do we need a tut on it?” Yes, I would benefit a lot with that tut!””  So this one’s for you, Kathi!

Because I work on a PC laptop running Windows 10, these instructions will reflect that. The process for Mac users will be very similar, and I’ll include a link to help with browsing files on a Mac at the end.

This might not be the smartest way to do this, but it’s been working for me for a long time and I don’t have to remember file paths – BONUS! I have two file tabs open, one with Window Explorer and one with my Digikit folders where the Styles I want to add to the directory currently are. Let’s look at the Digikit tab first.

These are all the Styles Katie, aka Ooh La La Scraps and Just So Scrappy, creates for ALL of her collections. I want to use one of these in my demo.

I’ve used several different versions of Photoshop Elements over the years, and I have directories galore. There’s no guarantee that a current version is going to put things in the same place as the older versions, so I stopped trying to memorize file paths a long time ago. Instead, I let my laptop do the work! Moving to the Explorer tab, I type “.asl” into the Search box – it’s where the arrow is pointing. That’s the file type suffix for Photoshop and Elements Styles. In the screenshot it shows that I’m searching my OS(C:) drive, because it’s the only drive I have in this laptop. If you have multiple drives and aren’t sure which drive to search, you can choose This PC in the folders list to the left of your screen instead. Then I let Windows find all the files with that suffix. It might take a couple of minutes, so I make myself some tea while I’m waiting. 😉

If you’ve used a progression of versions, look for a file path on the list Explorer will provide you that names your current version – you want to be sure Elements finds the files later, and it’s not going to look in those other folders. Mine says C:\Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 2021\Presets\Styles. Then right-click on that file name and choose Open File Location from the pop-up menu.

Explorer will open up the Adobe folder where all the Styles included with the software are.  I have a LOT of Styles I’ve Copied into this folder so your mileage may vary.(I really should merge my directories…)

Now I’ve moved back to the tab open with my Ooh La La Scraps kit Styles folder. I’ve selected all of the Styles in the folder [click on the top name, hold down the CTRL key and click on the last name to select all quickly] and right-clicked to Copy. [Keyboard shortcut is CTRL>C]

Back on the Explorer tab, you can see the actual path Windows uses to locate Elements Presets. But why memorize all that? To add the Copied Styles into the folder, right-click and choose Paste or simply CTRL>V.

That’s all there is to the process. Let’s give it a quick test. I’ll use this acrylic F as my sample. The new Styles have to be Loaded into Elements‘ menu before they can be used, so click on the Styles button at the bottom of the Layers Panel, and then click the stack-of-paper icon to access the Tool Options. Choose Load Styles…

All the Styles in the Directory list will pop up. I’m going to use the Nearly Fall Dots Style on my sample. So I clicked on it then Load.

Et voilà!

Brushes can be Copied into the Presets directory in the same way, using the suffix “.abr” instead. If you like, you can rename any or all of them to make them easier to find on the Directory list. Make your software work for you!!

Mac users: How to Browse Files on a Mac (howtogeek.com)

 

Tutorial Tuesday (Potpourri)

Yes! You Can Add a QR Code to Tour Layouts!

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3MKBAsF

And omigosh, you won’t believe how easy it is!! Last month the Journaling Challenge had two options for topics: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? Or tell us about the last time you cried. I chose the latter and created my layout, as shown below.

I ugly-cried when, while watching a country music awards show with my son, I heard Toby Keith sing Don’t Let the Old Man In, looking gaunt and pale from his battle with stomach cancer. I lost a close friend 5 years ago to the same cruel disease and I found myself sobbing. I used the lyrics as my journaling but never even thought to include a QR code linked to the video of his performance until much later. Let me tell you how I did it.

First, I did some Googling to find the safest, most reliable, completely free converter out there. The one I chose to use is found here. (Click on “here”.) Or type in the URL from the screenshot below. Look at all the options for file source you can use for your code! And it’s completely customizable.

I’m linking to a YouTube video, so I clicked the YouTube icon and Copy-Pasted the URL (Universal Resource Locator, or web address) into the source bar. For this step you need two tabs open, one with your source and one with the QR code generator website. Highlight the URL on your computer screen by click-dragging your cursor over it. Right-click and choose Copy, or CTRL/CMD>C. Then go to the QR generator and put your cursor in the source box. Right-click and choose Paste, or CTRL/CMD>V. Last, click on the green bar to Generate QR Code.

Your QR code appears instantly as shown. Before you go any further, get your phone and test the code to make sure it works. Most phones these days don’t need a separate QR code scanner app, just the camera. Try mine!

There are so many options for customizing your code. I don’t want to add a logo, but the instructions are very straight-forward if you choose to add one. I DO want to make the colour fit into my layout better, so I’ll show you how I did that. Click Set Colors.

I had my layout’s PSD file open in Elements so I used the Eye Dropper Color Picker to choose a russet-brown shade from one of the flowers. Keep the Color Picker dialog box open, you’ll need it! I tried to Copy the hex code for the colour – the one with the # symbol in front of it in the blue box – into the code generator but it wouldn’t let me do it.

So I tried typing the numbers shown in the R, G and B boxes on the Color Picker into the R, G and B boxes on the code generator. It worked. Here’s a closer look at the Color Picker so you can see what I mean.

The colour of the QR code changed automatically. I verified that the hex code matches with the Elements Color Picker. It does!

I could use the code as is, but decided to add a border.

I changed the default colour to one from my layout in the same way. There’s even an option to change the text inside the border, and the font too. To save it so I can add it to my layout, I chose to go with a PNG file so it would have a transparent background.

Here it is, added to my layout next to the lyrics. I’ve tested it in its location and at this size, as shown on my computer screen and it works perfectly! I may have to do this again (a few times) for other layouts.

Does this look like something you’ll try? It can add so much context to our layouts that just won’t fit into a journal box. And it’s easy-peasy-free!

Tutorial Tuesday (Potpourri)

X-Fonter – a Powerful Font Manager

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3Z81CLe

First off, I apologize in advance for the lateness of the hour. I’ve had a MILLION interruptions today and am desperately playing catch-up. Now, on to the tutorial!

There has been a lot of chatter about font managers, both for digital scrapbooking and for Cricut users. I’ve used High Logic MainType for a few years and ran a tutorial on it a while back. Recently I got this PM from Kathi (aka granny5pics):

Hi Jan,
1) I have used the free version of X-Fonter for awhile and last month bought version 12.0.1 because I could no longer find it on my computer! Now I have forgotten how to load a font sample into a “Collection” I have created. Are you familiar with X-Fonter and how it works? Do you or designers have a font management program you like?

2) Why do some font folders show an example of the font and others do not?

3) Which is better to load–a .tff or .otf font file?

So, of course, I downloaded the free trial version and took it for a test drive. Let’s discuss.

1) The reason why Kathi couldn’t find X-Fonter on her computer is because it has a self-destruct after 30 days. Every time the app is accessed, it has a countdown timer and a reminder that if you plan to continue to use it, you have to buy it. The most recent version is 12.0.1, as she said, and today’s price is $35 (discounted from $40). Follow along for the Collection part.

2) Font folders on your hard drive may not always show a thumbnail of the font. I haven’t found an answer to why, but I looked at my own folders and there are quite a few that didn’t come with the thumbnail. So a font manager can be a handy way to see what those fonts look like before deciding to use them. Or try wordmark.it which will pull all your fonts and show them to you online. It doesn’t store any of your information so don’t worry about it being safe.

3. The difference between .otf and .ttf formats starts with where they originated. Microsoft/Adobe created OpenType.otf, Apple created Truetype.ttf. I always choose .otf format because the fonts are somewhat more complex, with all the glyphs and library options right in the file. TrueType has better screen quality so is more suited for electronic documentation while OpenType is better for print. The difference in file size is negligible. So it basically comes down to planned use and personal preference.

Now, how does this X-Fonter work? If you’ve used MainType you’ll see the interface is pretty similar, but the features are quite different.

I went through each tab and button one at a time to get a good look at what’s under the hood. Under View, the first two choices are pretty self-explanatory. Other than moving the boundaries of the windows, these are the only interface adjustments. First big advantage to X-Fonter is this! Font Compare lets you look at 2 fonts at the same time so you can choose the one that works best for your purpose.

The display windows are your access to the comparison. The first font you choose will automatically go in the top window. Click on the bottom window and choose your second font.

Options… hmm. There are Options? Browse Folders just takes you to your operating system’s directory.

Default Settings look reasonable to me. Check for Update on Startup keeps you running the most recent model.

Installing gives you control over what your computer does when you install fonts, either from a download or from a storage device. It might be worthwhile to Copy Files to an dedicated X-Fonter folder.

And then if you decide you’re never going to use a specific font again, you can Uninstall! By having a copy in your X-Fonter folder, you can load and unload without installing if you choose to later.

Under View Fonts there are several options, including what you want for your Preview Text. It’s handy having system fonts colour-coded so they can be skipped over easily.

Unless you’re a real IT maven, the Database tab is purely ornamentation.

This Settings tab is where you can customize what you see on your screen. You can change the Text Colour, Background Colour or leave it black on white.

Have a look at the Text menu. Another advantage to X-F! I use French text all the time and have memorized the most common ASCII codes I use, and others I look up on a table, but having this ability is huge!

This is what I mean.

But how do I get the ASCII character onto my project? Choose the character – let’s use a GBPound symbol – and right-click, then choose Copy to Clipboard.

Then with your Text Tool active, click on your project where you want your Pound symbol then Paste (CTRL/CMD>V). Easy peasy!

On to Pangrams. You can choose from 4 different sentences containing every letter of the alphabet.

Don’t you love Filters? You can winnow 1000 items down to a few dozen. Just be aware that when you end your X-F session by closing the app, all your filters will go too unless you Save Filter…

Aha! System fonts can be filtered out!

 

Are you familiar with Font Families? X-F uses Roman (Serif), Swiss (Sans Serif), Modern (Monospace), Script (Cursive), Decorative (Fantasy) and Unknown (Other) and will filter for either of those terms.

Font Type has already been covered above, somewhat. Raster Fonts and Vector Fonts are used by a range of text-based applications such as Photoshop and Cricut.

Then there are Font Styles… how handy is this?

These Tools aren’t typically applicable to digital scrapbooking, except maybe Duplicate Font Search…

I’m not sure why someone would want to rename a font, since the creator chose its name, but maybe changing it to something that makes sense to the user?

For the people who like to have hard copies, under the Print button you can print out all the fonts on your system, or only certain ones. You can choose just a sample of the font, or the entire character map. Hey… school supplies are on sale – grab a binder and some page protectors!

Next to the Print button is the Create Font Book button. Yes, you can group all your fonts into categories and create an online library of your Font Books.

Third from left is an Options button, and it’s identical to the Options tab.

In the middle are a Filters button and a Clear Filters button. Self-explanatory.

Now to Collections, as Kathi was asking about. Here, YOU decide what your descriptors are. I’m going to create 2 Collections, Creepy and Fairytale, as part of my test drive.

I scrolled down my font list until I found my first Creepy font. I right-clicked on the font’s name then chose Add to Collection>Creepy. Then I continued scrolling until I found another font that met the criteria, adding it, and so on. I ran into a snag with some of the fonts I have, because X-F wasn’t able to “locate the path*” to those fonts, which meant it couldn’t add to a Collection. I’m not sure how it found the fonts in the first place without a path, but what do I know?

That’s where Tags* come in. Font Tags lets me search for the type of font I’m looking for by yet another method. Edit Font Tags doesn’t mean the font already has a tag; it’s how you access the Tag process.

I chose this cute font called Beyond Wonderland to Tag with Fairytale by right-clicking on the font name and choosing Edit Font Tags then typed in Fairytale.

To use Tags to find my desired group, I had to push the boundary of the font preview box over until I could see the Tag heading, then click on it.

Now for the critique. I wasn’t able to get X-F to run on my laptop simply by opening it once I had it installed. I had to Run as Administrator. I shut it down when I was done with my screenshots, but wasn’t able to get it to run again. I got a message that I had 29 days left on my free trial, it read my font files then disappeared. Multiple times. Even after I added it to my Taskbar. I tried all the tricks I know to make it work, without success. Windows Troubleshooter declared it incompatible with my operating system (Windows 10) and tried running it in Windows 8. Again without success. So I’m doubtful I’ll pay $35 ($50 in Canadian currency) for it. It’s impressive when it works, but…

Tutorial Tuesday (Photoshop Elements)

Quick Trick: No More Blemishes!

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3AA0q81

Have you ever looked at a heritage photo and wanted to display it or create a layout with it, but it has a big fold, crack, scratch or wrinkle you can’t crop out? This tutorial is for you! (Only thing is… you need Elements 14 or more recent.)

This photo of my grandmother’s younger sister Mamie was in the treasure trove my grandmother’s cousin (still alive and well at 90!) has in her archives. It’s in pretty decent condition, considering it was taken in 1915. But it has some scratches, cracks and foxing, all things that happen to old prints. Black and white photo paper has a layer of gelatin emulsion impregnated with silver halide crystals that undergoes a chemical reaction when exposed to light. This emulsion layer is relatively fragile, especially as it ages and becomes more brittle; it’s easily scratched and is prone to cracking when the paper is flexed. This gelatin layer is what causes old photos to curl over time. But enough with the history lesson! How can these precious photos be repaired? With the Content Aware Move Tool!!

I Zoomed in on the area where I want to start my repairs. I also added a new blank layer above my photo. This is the layer I’ll be working on as I do the restoration.

To find the Content Aware Move Tool, look at the Tool Panel along the left side. It’s the one with the criss-crossing arrows icon at the bottom just above the Color Picker. Click on that. Before you use the Tool, make sure the settings are as shown: Mode = Move, Healing = 50%, Sample All Layers = ON and Transform on Drop = OFF. Then drag out a Selection around the spot you want to fix.

Then click and drag the Selection onto an area of the photo that doesn’t need fixing. Elements, using AI technology, cleans up the spot automatically. Be aware though that once you’ve used any “clean” area of the photo, it’s off-limits for reuse. Why? Because when you go to Delete the Selection, it’ll restore any other flaw you may have moved there. I found that out the hard way.

Since we’re FIXING and not just REARRANGING damage, the next step is to Delete what’s inside the Selection. You can do the multi-step Edit>Delete or just hit the Delete key. Elements doesn’t care. [You’ll know if you’ve forgotten to activate the BLANK layer because the area you’re Deleting will turn blue. AHHHH!]

These three steps are all you need to know. You don’t need to Deselect to move on to the next damaged area, just go ahead and Select it. Easy-peasy!

For more complex damage, like this crack/scratch/crease combo, it works best to do it in chunks.

The Tool can make very detailed Selections, which don’t have to be super precise.

And there it was… gone! (My dad says that all the time.)

Once you get to the point where all that’s left to clean up is dust spots and little discoloured areas, Merge the two layers together – Click>SHIFT>click on the layers then right-click and choose Merge Layers or CTRL/CMD>E. Then you can go ahead and use the Spot Healing Brush and/or the Clone Stamp to finish up. The image can be printed and framed, or used in a layout (or both!) as desired. I only have about 40 more photos to do now……

I’m sure there are other ways this Tool can be used. I’ll put my thinking cap on and see what I can come up with!

 

 

Tutorial Tuesday (Photoshop Elements 2021+)

Guided Edit: Perfect Landscape

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3GDI35u

By popular request! Let’s get this one off on the right foot from the start… this Guided Edit wasn’t available until Elements 2021 launched. If you’re using an older version of Elements (2018, 2019 or 2020), you’ll have to use the old-school method I showed you here. Anything older than that and you’ll have to manually extract the sky, find a sky overlay and add it on. Much more work. 🙁

Landscape photos can be stunning, or they can be kinda blah. Uniformly gray skies can provide great saturated colour to objects in the foreground, but overall, they can make for a pretty boring image. Most of the photos I took while in Ireland have a blown-out almost white sky. But now, with the Perfect Landscape Guided Edit, I can do something about that, fairly easily too! I’d already used my usual editing arsenal on this image – there was a car in the original photo! – but that sky drags the whole thing down. Let’s fix it!

You’ll find this marvel on this path: Guided>Special Edits>Perfect Landscape. Elements uses Artificial Intelligence for this Edit. It seems to be fairly competent at it too.

This is what the Perfect Landscape interface looks like. Because I’ve already edited the photo before, I’ll skip over the Crop, Straighten and Remove Haze tools. They’re pretty much self-explanatory and/or have been featured in other tutorials. I’m going right to the Choose a new Sky toolkit. There are 16 different sky options here. Experiment with them to see what will look best with your particular photo. To undo your choice, just CTRL/CMD>Z.

What do you think of this one? I know, right?! [Please ignore the typo in the image. Ta!]

This is the progress bar for the analysis part of the Edit, while AI is working. It’s deciding where the sky is and judging how bright to make the replacement sky.

Here you can see I’ve chosen the very first option from the palette with the Opacity and Brightness at 100%, and the photo looks better. But not quite right. There are a few adjustments that can be made manually, so let’s look at them.

Watch closely when you make adjustments. Every time. You need to see what’s happening so you can decide how much of a change the action is creating and if it actually looks better or worse. Ticking the Auto Match Color Tone box made the entire image darker and the details less visible. It’s a no for me, dawg.

When you hear about how much it rains in Ireland, it’s not an exaggeration. They have a lot of “soft days” – when it’s drizzling. In my photo there’s a muddy area just in front of the opening in the back wall. So maybe I should move the sky around so there are a few more clouds, to give the impression that a storm has blown through and the ground is drying. The Move Tool button activates the layer with the sky on it so I can do that.

That’s better. Because the AI worked flawlessly, I don’t really need to make any more changes to this one. So I’ll click Next down at the lower right corner of the canvas to the next menu.

I’ll Save As this image as an edit of the original, but I’ll do it in the Expert editing area. I might decide I want to use the photo right away on a layout.

I wanted you to see all the steps Elements took in the background. You can see the first thing it did was to isolate the sky area. Then came a gradient layer, the sky image layer, a brightness adjustment layer then a mask that concealed all but the sky area. Last is a composite of all the layers. Because the top layer is a composite, adjusting any of the other layers makes no change to the end result.

So. What happens if part of the photo is mistaken for sky by the AI bot? In this photo, the buildings along the upper right are bright white, just like the sky. So our AI bot was confused and added sky to them. How can that be remedied?

Easy! Use the Refine Edge toolkit. I want to remove the sky from the buildings, so I clicked on Subtract and using a smallish, hard, round brush at 100% Opacity I erased it from view. if you’ve used any other brush just prior to doing this edit, you’ll run into trouble so click through to the Expert Edit, check the brush and then click back to the Guided Edit. I could pretend that I did this on purpose so I could tell you it works, but that would be a fib… I had the arrow brush I use on my screenshots active and it was a MESS!

There are still a few things I want to adjust on this image. For example, the water under and in front of the bridge should reflect some blue and cloud, and the area under the arch in the foreground would probably be a bit lighter and brighter with a blue sky. But I think it’s all doable.

My tip for making this easy and quick: Choose a photo with an easily identified sky and let the software do all the work!

Tutorial Tuesday (Photoshop Elements)

Quick Trick Tuesday: Close All

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3vqKtyh

I hope everyone who celebrates at this time of year has some great memories made and new stories to tell. I won’t keep you with a long, drawn-out, convoluted, complicated tutorial for the last one of 2022. This Quick Trick is literally 4-clicks-and-done… a true WSNH trick. (*Work Smart Not Hard) Let’s proceed.

I know I’m not the only one who often has about a million objects open in my Elements Photo Bin while I’m working on a layout. The thought of putting away my toys then takes on quite an unhappy aspect, and I might want to start into a new project right away, so I don’t want to just shut down Elements then restart it… bleaah! But then I found this Trick and it’s been a life-saver!

This 4-click process is so easy! File>Close All… (Keyboard shortcut CTRL/CMD>ALT/OPT>W) opens a little submenu where it asks you what you want to do with the files. I always Save As the files I’ve changed that I want to save my efforts for later first, just as a good habit. For example, photos I’ve edited and layouts I’ve completed are Saved as I go along, but that button I Resized or that ribbon I recoloured? They don’t need to be Saved as changed. With this menu, I can use one click to tell Elements to do the same thing with everything in the Photo Bin.

And voilà! Everything is closed, Elements is waiting for the next project and woohoo! Time saved, effort saved.

As we say goodbye to 2022, I hope you all have some happy memories to soften the harshness this year has battered us all with. I hope all of you and those you love are safe from the extreme weather being experienced in so many parts of the world. And I hope you have much to look forward to in 2023!

PDF Version : https://bit.ly/3vqKtyh